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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.